A Beginner’s Guide to the Indian Masala Box

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Flavour, fragrance, and function—the beloved Indian household utensil packs in a punch.

The masala box was a ubiquitous, humble object in my household while growing up in Jaipur. The unassuming circular stainless steel box—with its seven round jars arranged in a floral shape—offered an instant rush of colour, fragrance, and memories. It would be brought out to aid almost every meal in the kitchen, including savoury breakfasts. It was only when I immigrated to Canada and struggled to cook out of the commonly available spice racks and glass jars that I realized how indispensable my country’s unique spice storage system was to Indian cooking.

What is a masala box?

The masala box, or dabba, is to the Indian kitchen what spices are to Indian cuisine—an anchor point for many and most dishes. The multi-compartment, airtight container typically holds a combination of seven dried spices—usually a mix of whole and ground. The constituents of the box vary by region, season, and household, but commonly feature cumin seeds (jeera in Hindi), turmeric powder (haldi), red chili powder (laal mirch), asafoetida powder (hing), mustard seeds (rai), garam masala (a blend of cumin, coriander seeds, cardamom, black pepper, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg), and coriander powder (dhania).

Part of the utility aspect of the masala box is the small quantities in which the spices are stored, given that they lose their aroma and potency when exposed to air, light, and moisture and are best used quickly and while fresh. The circular jars are re-filled from time to time from a larger stock of spices stored in a cool, dark, dry pantry—one which typically includes other special spices used in Indian cooking such as curry and bay leaves, cloves (laung), fennel seeds (saunff), carom seeds (ajwain), whole dried red chilis, and more.

The masala box is usually stored near the stove top or site of cooking; its handy design allows for ease of access and the quick layering and delicate balancing of spices that is key to many traditional Indian recipes. “The open display of spices in a masala dabba allows quick thinking and decision-making while aiding culinary creativity,” Indian architect and perfumer Jahnvi Lakhota Nandan writes in her book, Pukka Indian: 100 Objects That Define India. For instance, a staple bowl of khichdi requires mustard or cumin seeds to be added to the ghee while it is hot, and the whole and fresh spices to be added right when the seeds begin to crackle. Every household has a different take on this dish—it can be served as a spicy delicacy or as comfort food that helps reset the stomach.

What is the history of the masala box?

Spices have been known to be used in India since ancient times, with the earliest documentation of their history dating back to 6000 B.C. in the Hindu canonical text Rig Veda. Apart from their flavour and fragrance, spices have also historically been revered for their medicinal properties. Culinary chronicler and consultant Rushina Munshaw Ghildiyal, in her Instagram vlog #SpiceChronicleswithRMG, explains how these condiments serve as an essential source of micro-nutrients in the Indian diet. Packed with vitamins and minerals, Indian spices can aid the body in absorbing nutrients, building immunity, helping with respiratory problems, keeping cholesterol levels in check, and fighting diabetes.

“Every culinary culture, in its evolution, results in a parallel evolution of signature utensils and tools that most suit its requirements,” Ghildiyal tells me. “India with its prolific use of spices evolved specific solutions to address their usage in the Masala Dabba.”

Lakhota Nandan also explains in her book that the earliest Indian spice boxes were made of wood. “Traditionally these boxes were carved by slicing out a piece of trunk from a single tree with multiple recesses, the size of a drinking glass, to hold different spices. Moisture filters through the wood naturally while allowing the contents to breathe,” she writes. Stainless steel boxes are only a relatively recent development, having gained popularity in the 1950s and 60s as the material became available and essential in Indian kitchens.

When Ghildiyal got married, her grandmother gifted her a personalized masala box, etched with her name, as part of her bridal trousseau. “I remember thinking, that now, even I (hopefully) would open my dabba and create magic just like my Nani and mother with a pinch of this and a sprinkle of that!” she says. Indeed, the dabba is often a prized heirloom in Indian families, passed down matrilineally from generation to generation. It extends far beyond its quotidien value to serve as a signifier of home and identity for Indians around the world to date.

How can I build and cook with my own masala box?

A stainless steel masala box, complete with a small teaspoon, should be available at most Indian grocery stores, along with dried and packaged Indian spices. A starter box should include mustard and cumin seeds, turmeric and red chili powder, ground coriander powder, garam masala, and asafoetida powder.

Balance and timing are key when working with Indian spices. One of the primary functions of a masala box is to have all the spices handy when the cooking oil is hot and to prevent it from burning before all the seasonings are added. It is also important to pay attention to how much masala a particular recipe requires at different stages of cooking, as well as how long to cook it.

The most common use of these spices in the everyday Indian kitchen is to prepare the tempering or tadka—the process of frying spices in oil or ghee to activate their aroma, flavour, and nutrients. A tadka is usually added at the beginning or end of cooking, depending on the dish.

One customary dish in the Indian kitchen is dal tadka, a spicy take on the staple lentil soup with three layers of spices. First, the cumin seeds are crackled in hot oil and a pinch of asafoetida is added. In the second layer, the fresh spices and vegetables—onions, tomatoes, green chilis, ginger, and garlic (usually grated or pureed into a paste), are introduced to the mix. The spice powders such as turmeric, red chili powder, and coriander powder are typically put in as the third layer. This tempering is then added to the pressure-cooked lentil and water mix and garnished with fresh coriander.

If you’re keen to go beyond a starter box and want to maximize the flavor profile, Karan Khanna, head chef at The Second House in Goa, recommends investing in a basic spice grinder and granulating whole spices into small batches of fresh powders intermittently.

In a world of measuring cups and spoons, I find the utmost joy and comfort in working with my masala box. It makes cooking feel like more of an art than an exact science—my pan serving as the canvas for my colourful masalas. This humble totem of my heritage also heals the grief of diaspora in me. It’s comforting to know that there are some aspects of my culture that I’m able to preserve, carry, and pass on exactly the way I received them.

This story originally appeared in Chatelaine